Soil-moisture sensors, BOM-aware scheduling, zone valves wired to a single local controller. Stop watering before the rain hits, and don't water at all for the three days afterwards.
Soil-moisture sensors, BOM-aware scheduling, zone valves wired to a single local controller. Stop watering before the rain hits, and don't water at all for the three days afterwards.
A tap timer does exactly one thing. It opens the valve at the hour you set, whether the soil is soaked or bone dry, whether a storm is forty minutes away or a heatwave is coming on Thursday. It cannot know any of that, so it cannot act on it.
That is why gardens die on a schedule while the water bill climbs anyway. The fix is not a better timer. It is a controller that reads the soil and the forecast and decides whether to water at all.
Soil moisture probes tell the system what the garden already has. The Bureau of Meteorology forecast for your suburb tells it what is coming. Together they answer the only question that matters, which is whether this bed needs water tonight.
If meaningful rain is on the way, tonight's cycle is cancelled, and it stays cancelled through the days afterwards while the ground is still wet. Before a forecast scorcher it does the opposite and puts down a deep soak the evening before, so the root zone is charged when the heat arrives.
Natives, vegetables, lawn and pots do not want the same water. Running them all from one valve on one schedule guarantees that something is being drowned while something else goes thirsty.
Each zone gets its own moisture target and its own solenoid, so the vegetable patch can drink while the native bed is left alone. Drip and spray are both supported, and every zone keeps a manual override at the tap for the days you simply want to water something yourself.
Watering windows can be constrained to permitted hours, so the system stays inside the rules without anyone having to remember what the rules currently are.
Usage is logged per zone, which is how a problem becomes a number instead of a shock bill. A solenoid stuck open or a split line reads as a flat overnight flow that has no business being there, and the system tells you at the time rather than at the end of the quarter.
We work the same way for a $250 consultation as for a $20K whole-home install. You always know what happens next, who's doing it, and what it costs.
2-hour onsite. We map circuits, Wi-Fi, existing gear, and the way you actually use each room. You get a written report regardless of next step.
A document that lists every device, every automation, every dashboard view, every line item. Reviewed with you live until it's right.
Licensed electricians for anything that needs it; our team for everything else. You're at home for the start & the end, not the middle.
Troubleshooting included for half a decade. Remote first, on-site if it really needs us.
Nearly always. The solenoids, valves and pipework in the ground are usually fine. What gets replaced is the controller driving them, and sometimes the wiring back to the valves. We confirm what is reusable at the audit.
The schedule, the sensors and the valves all run locally. The connection is used only to fetch the weather forecast, so if it drops the system carries on watering from soil moisture alone.
The saving comes almost entirely from the cycles you no longer run, which is the night before rain and the two or three days afterwards. Usage is logged per zone, so you can see the difference rather than take our word for it.
Then you should be able to, without arguing with a computer. Every zone keeps a manual override, and running it by hand does not break the schedule or confuse the system.
Browse the automations we build, then spec your own system. When you are ready, the $250 audit is credited in full against any install and you keep the written report either way.